Malta Gets A Remix As A Younger Generation Discovers Island's Delights

The older crowd have always loved Malta for its year-round good weather, value for money and quaintly British feel – they drive on the left, after all.

But since Valletta has been named 2018 European Capital of Culture, this little Mediterranean gem is enjoying something of a revival among the younger set.

With the city’s cute cafés, cool bars and boutiques, it’s no longer a throwback to the 1980s, when Malta package tours were the last word in sophistication.

And the rest of the island has the feel of a more a hip and happening destination too as a new generation of Brits fall for its many charms.

Like many who choose a package deal, we were based in St Julian’s, a bustling coastal resort within easy reach of Valletta and the original capital, the charming old walled city of Mdina.
We stayed at the four-star Cavalieri Art Hotel right on the beach, with great views of the harbour and bay below from our balcony. This modern hotel, ideal for couples and families, has a seafront terrace and three pools, including an indoor one.

In the summer part of the harbour is cordoned off so hotel residents can swim safely without having to dice with the jetskis.

The Cavalieri has great food, but there are many wonderful places to eat nearby and across the island so I would recommend bed and breakfast as your best option.

But if you want to stay put, the main dining hall overlooks St Julian’s Bay and in summer they have barbecues on the deck.

The hotel is 300 yards from the bars and restaurants of lively Paceville. Buses to Valletta and Sliema, and to the Gozo ferry terminal, stop nearby, so everything is within easy reach.

This tiny island gets incredibly congested in the summer and the traffic jams are legendary, so public transport is the way to go. However, if you want to explore a little bit off the main tourist route, it is worth hiring a car.
Malta is determined to shake off its cheap ’n’ cheerful package holiday image and present itself as cultural and cool. Nowhere is this more clearly illustrated than in Valletta. It is a beautiful micro city set on a hill with the sea on three sides.

I spent my first day exploring St John’s Cathedral, built by the Knights of St John to celebrate their 1565 victory over the Ottomans. It is a feast of Baroque gilt and frescoes and has one of ­Caravaggio’s finest paintings, The Beheading of St John the Baptist.

After all that culture, a good place to take a break is the hilltop Upper Barrakka Gardens, which have breathtaking views over the Grand Harbour.

And with all that done in the searing heat there was only one thing for it. A beer at a traditional British pub of course.

Simply called “The Pub”, this backstreet boozer is where hellraiser Oliver Reed enjoyed his last almighty bender, which consisted of eight pints of lager, 12 double rums and half a bottle of whisky.

The fabulous restaurant next door, Angelica, serves up fantastic rabbit in wine for about £14. This dish is popular in many local restaurants but the food at this little place, with its jewel-coloured table cloths and ­bohemian feel, is fantastic and prices are reasonable.
Although Valletta is undoubtedly a ­beautiful place, the ancient walled city of Mdina is the jewel in the Malta’s crown, and a magical place to spend an evening.

Perched high on a hill with magnificent views, this medieval city is stunning – and car-free.

You can lose yourself in its narrow winding back streets, exploring the twists and turns, shop in its smart boutiques and gift shops, and eat and drink in its stylish restaurants and cafés.
The best has to be the Fontanella Tea Room and Garden for location alone. Its position on the edge of the city wall offers amazing views across the island. But it doesn’t just do tea and cakes.

We went in the evening and had a fantastic three-course meal with good wine for two people for around £45.

A holiday in Malta wouldn’t be complete without the obligatory day trip to neighbouring islands Gozo and Comino .

You can catch ferries to both from Spinola Bay, the next resort along to St Julian’s.

We caught a ferry to the nearby largely uninhabited island of Comino, specifically to swim in the Blue Lagoon.

Unfortunately the rest of Malta had the same idea, as dozens of little ferry boats docked and spilled out hot and sweaty tourists desperate to dive into the uniquely turquoise waters.
Be warned – in August temperatures soar to up to 40°C and Comino in particular is tiny and gets extremely crowded. You may prefer to visit in spring or autumn when it’s quieter and cooler.

The Blue Lagoon is a swimmers’ paradise, though, and there are caves to explore. It was so crowded when we visited we swam right across the bay to the other side.