Fishermen’s Trail - Day 1 - The Algarve section , Southern Portugal - Sagres to Salema

Sagres to Salema

Following the previous year’s walk along the Fishermen's way from Porto Covo to Cape St Vincent along the Atlantic coast, we decided to complete the final 3 days from Sagres to Lagos, on the Algarve. We had flown into Faro, and had spent a couple of days in Lagos. We were up early and caught a taxi from Lagos to Sagres. We had checked the local bus service, but they did not arrive early enough. We decided not to walk from St Vincent to Sagres as we had been advised that much of the walk was along the main road. Today's walk is described as being the hardest of the Fishermen's way. It takes at least 8 hours, with some steep sections, but we were looking forward to some beach walking. We were hoping the day would be relatively cool, hopefully with a sea breeze. But even though it was the end of April, it was already 25 °. We were carrying our kit for 3 days, which was replenished each day with 3 litres of water, sandwiches and snacks. There are some beach bars along the way, which we were hoping would be open-always nice for a rest and refreshments. Arriving in Sagres at 8.45am, we soon found ourselves at the start of the walk which is next to the Tourist Information office. There is the usual information board, this one saying 19.5km, 8 hours, 600m ascent, 650m descent, very hard walk to Salema. There is a lovely statue of Henry the Navigator, who was responsible for much exploration of West Africa. We walked east along the road through the small town passing a Spar shop, cafes and surfing accommodation. Watch for the blue arrow turning left just before the port, but we looked over the port first, with great views, before walking across Martinhal beach by a 5-star hotel. Ascending, we continued along the cliff-tops, descending, we passed a large lagoon with 100’s of frogs making a great deal of noise (9.30am).

We passed a ruined building at 10.05am (5.5km), before continuing along Barranco beach, where we stopped for a rest. (145m ascent done, 2 hours). Continuing up a steep path from the beach, to the left of the path is a very pretty circular design of small stones-very artistically created. We stopped at Restaurante do Sebastiao (2 hours 50mins, ascent 210m), having a very welcome drink in the shade, overlooking a beach with surfers. A very large group of cyclists had stopped too.

Continuing, following the path along the cliffs, it was a very steep path descending to Zavial beach, with a couple of our party members taking a fall. We had a lunch stop in the shade of the cliffs for 25 mins, leaving at 1.40pm, before gaining the cliff path once more beside the beautiful turquoise sea. The path goes very slightly inland with the whitewashed village of Salema coming into view. At 3.50pm we arrived in Salema, checking into Hotel Salema, in a lovely room with a sea view.

We had a walk round the small town, there is a small convenience shop opposite the hotel, and another one 5 minutes’ walk back up the hill, as well as a few bars and restaurants. Overall, it is a fairly small, quiet, but lovely place with a gorgeous beach.

We had a drink at Atlantico bar before having dinner at Restaurante Boia, with lovely food, great service, and fabulous views out over the sea.

It had been a lovely day, with wonderful views and scenery. We were looking forward to more walking the next day. We had not found the walk too hard, just slippery on the steep descents.

Distance 12.74 miles (20.5km)

Duration of Walk 7 Hours 2 mins including breaks

Elevation Gained 1932 feet (589m)

Pace 33 min a mile

Information/Advice www.bookings.com Hotel Salema

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g445039-d5977361-Reviews-Atlantico_Restaurante_Bar-Salema_Faro_District_Algarve.html

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g445039-d1773096-Reviews-Boia_Bar-Salema_Faro_District_Algarve.html

Henry the Navigator was born in Porto in 1394, and died in Sagres in 1460. He never actually went on an ocean voyage himself. He assembled a body of scientists and navigators at Sagres, who invented amongst other things the caravel ship. Henry helped start “the Age of Exploration”, expanding the territory and wealth of Portugal, with new trade routes, and also spreading Christianity.

Sagres means “sacred” and for 3,000 years was at the limits of the known world. It is the best place in Europe for observing migratory seabirds especially when the weather is bad. It is now the centre of a biogenetic reserve, created in 1988.

Dolphins may be seen migrating in October,

The Martinhal Lagoon is dry in the summer, but in the winter is filled by saltwater, and it is a great spot for birdwatching.

Don’t rely on the beach bars being open- it depends on the season/day of the week. Take enough food and drink to last all day, just in case.

Paths were marked by blue and green posts.

Be very careful on the descents, the paths are steep, with unstable loose stones. Even walkers using walking poles slipped over.